Featured

August 2019: News About Our Adventure

What would we do if we had the time and opportunity to
do something we talked about doing if only we had the time to do it? Also known as: calling our bluff.

We sent the below email to friends/family in August 2019. It might provide useful background information for those of you who haven’t seen the email and are interested to learn the information. Here is the email:

Hi everyone,

I hope you are enjoying the summer.

I hate sending this via a large mass email but I haven’t seen/talked
to many of you over the summer and want you to know we haven’t just
disappeared, so here goes:  we bought a sailing catamaran in San Diego
in July and are moving aboard. Jason and I spent most of the past 3
weeks out there settling in, returned for 2 days to close up our house
for our renters, drove to my parents in CT, picked up Ryan and Owen in
camp in NH yesterday and are now driving back to San Diego via Jason’s
family in Chicago and Wisconsin.

We expect to be in San Diego vicinity through November (end of
hurricane season) and then sail south to Mexico and likely beyond
depending on timing and weather. It’s the first time in years that we
have no plans or agenda.  (The amount of time for this adventure
varies depending on which one of us is answering but figure a few
months to a year or so.) 🙂

Some quick answers to questions you may be wondering/others have
asked, and of course we are happy to talk more about any of them or
for you to ignore them if you’re not interested:
– What about the boys’ school?  Boat school, aka homeschool.  There
are a lot of online resources and we will focus on location-based work
as well. I know we have big shoes to fill relative to the Mamaroneck
school district.  Any ideas/tips on this always welcome!
– What about your jobs? Jason will return periodically to work
clinical shifts.  I may do some consulting.  My company was acquired a
few months ago (and I transitioned out as a result), and this
adventure is all about maximizing the benefit of this unexpected gift
of time and seizing an opportunity to simplify in a way we talked
about but never had an opportunity to do.  We were forced to answer
the question: what would we do if we had the time and opportunity to
do something we talked about doing if only we had the time to do it?
(I also have been referring to this as calling our bluff.)
– Will you have internet access?  Yes. There will be occasions when we
will be offshore and won’t have cell service so will rely on a
satellite device that can only receive plain text emails without
attachments (when that happens, we will have an automatic response
letting you know not to send attachments) but we expect to have
continued access to emails, and typically have access to internet –
though slower than fios at home.  This will take some adjustment. We
also plan to stay relatively closer to shore most of the time
regardless.
– How do Ryan and Owen feel about this?  Ryan and Owen are excited.
Maybe more excited than I am!  There are obvious trade offs but Owen
said it best when I asked him to really consider everything he would
miss in 5th grade if we set out on this adventure: “yes…. but think
of everything else I’ll gain.”
– Can we visit? Yes, we would LOVE visitors! We just don’t yet know
where we will be or when so visits require some flexibility, but
visitors are very welcome!
– What?! How long have you planned this and why haven’t I heard about
it?  While Jason has dreamed about doing this someday, perhaps in
retirement, we never expected this window of time. Once it came about,
we started methodically discussing and planning. This began with a lot
more of “no way are we doing such a random thing” from me and slowly
evolved to my telling Jason “I am all in.”
– Wait: Cross country road trip?? Yes. This kind of thing was actually
my initial preference for a sabbatical year. Instead we are cramming
it into about 10 days to get some stuff, the dog and the boys to the
boat. We are hightailing it to Wisconsin first and then will choose
the remainder of the route and see where we stop as we go.
– Will you name the boat? Of course! When this was in the “if we got a
boat, what would we name it?” stage, Owen used Google translate to
find the word “journey” in different languages. He found Yatra, which
is journey in Nepali, and Yatra it is. We selected it after a
months-long brainstorming process and then a family vote. Official
renaming ceremony and new signage to happen soon.
– What kind of boat?  It is a sailing catamaran whose prior owners
were a family of 5 from CA (2 parents, 3 kids plus dog) who purchased
it in Europe, spent some time fixing it up there, then sailed it
through the Mediterranean, across the Atlantic, through the Caribbean,
the Panama Canal and up the Pacific coast of Central America from
there to northern CA. They delivered it to us in San Diego. It will
require more maintenance than a house and is basically like a floating
island: it has a generator, enough solar panels so that we generally
won’t need to run the generator, a watermaker to convert saltwater to
freshwater, tiny bathrooms/showers and enough room for us and
occasional guests. Although this idea may sound amazing to some, we
also expect to spend a lot of time on proactive maintenance to
minimize unexpected surprises, though those are unavoidable too. We
have been told that cruising is also known as “fixing your boat in
exotic places.”
– Do you have sailing experience? Jason grew up sailing with friends
on Lake Michigan, we all went on a trip this year where we got various
certifications and stayed on a catamaran similar to the one we
purchased, and Jason and I were just with an instructor for 10 days
doing advanced trainings on the boat. Ryan did a 3 week sailing camp
this summer, and both boys got their “mates” at Camp Kabeyun this
month.  The main focus of this adventure is the travel and adventure
rather than the sailing; sailing is the vehicle for that travel and we
aren’t in a race to get anywhere.
– Will you be blogging?  (We have gotten this question a lot! Do
people really want to hear?!)  I have to figure this out. I’ve had a
few higher priority things going on. But I will log on to Facebook for
the first time in over a year and start with that. We will likely
start using Instagram too. More to come on a blog.

We have told some of you about this to various degrees, and sincere
apologies we couldn’t get to those of you personally who are surprised
and shouldn’t have been. Between transitioning from work; setting up
the house for rentals and showings; purging and moving stuff to our
attic, to a storage space, into a UHaul trailer hitched to our car now
(did I mention that above?!), and a few things to my parents’ house;
shaking down the boat, etc., it has been busy and we didn’t get to see
everyone we wanted to – in fact, we barely got to see anyone!
Although I am sending this to a very large group, I’m sure I also
inadvertently left people off this email, completely unintended. I
don’t want to disappear without explaining things. 🙂

While we are away we would love to get updates from all of you and
still feel connected.  The boys will check their emails (copied here)
and texts as well. Have your kids (or you!) write!

All our best!
Jenn Kronick and Jason Shapiro
Ryan and Owen Shapiro . . . and Flash!

More Mag Bay

December 7, 2019

We expect to leave Magdalena Bay tomorrow to sail to Cabo San Lucas. We will miss this place greatly.  We would stay longer but don’t want to miss a good weather window to continue. This post includes photos of our time here and, lest you think this experience is all play, I have included some photos of our working and learning here in Mag Bay.

The only restaurant in “town” – we ate there last night with friends from another boat. (And yes, Jason has crazy hair now!)
Owen and Ryan played with the owner’s son. They both spoke a little Spanish like “Mira!”” (“Look!”) and “Hola!” (“Hi!”). In this photo, Ryan used his phone to look up a translation.
Photo on the restaurant wall shows two boats bringing the owner’s friend’s truck to the village.
Sunrise this morning
Yesterday two fishermen asked to use some of our oil because they ran out. We said yes right away, and then they gave us 3 lobsters and a snapper. We cooked them tonight and I am grateful I didn’t have to plan a meal from scratch.
Whenever we return to the boat in the dinghy, one of us needs to take the painter line (rope tied to the dinghy) and quickly jump at the right moment from the dinghy to the boat. I managed to get a picture of Ryan doing this yesterday.
Learning about our water filters
Jason measuring the electricity coming from the solar panels on the roof of the helm station. Notice Flash in the background.
This is a basic and relatively uncomplicated job to people who have done this before, but in the spirit of celebrating accomplishments: one of the shower draining and I tackle it yesterday. I had already cleaned the shower filters (unscrewed plastic covers, took out, washed and replaced filter screens), so that wasn’t the issue but I cleaned them again regardless. Then I used an electric screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps for the hoses connecting the drain to the filter and the filter to the outlet. Next, I used a hose puller (black and red handle in the photo) for the first time to pull the hoses off the shower filter. (I did need Jason to help with the first one – amazing how tight those can get and that you can pull without ripping them!). I used a snake to try to locate and clear any blockage. Ultimately I found a small piece of red plastic or tape blocking the hose running from the shower to the filter. Problem solved!! Put hose back on filter, tightened hose clamps. Again, an easy task for those who know, but really exciting for me given my first time.
You can get to the ocean by hiking approximately 1/2 mile over the sand dunes from the bay to the ocean, which we did with a couple from another boat. At the ocean, we found three old turtle shells.
Ryan also found an old bleached skull.
Another photo of the skull and its sharp teeth.
We saw dolphins today at anchor. Owen immediately took the kayak to try to get close to them. He didn’t think he got close, but did say he got “the closest he has ever been to a dolphin.”
The bay was so calm, we tried wake boarding off the dinghy for the first time. This is Ryan wakeboarding.
… and Owen wakeboarding.
Yesterday Ryan and Owen kayaked to the beach together while Jason and I did boat projects. This is them returning.
They are problem solving and working together to get to the boat, then Owen held on (after letting go without a paddle, so I had to carefully hand it to them) while Ryan untied the rope coil and tied the kayak to the boat.

Man of War Cove, Bahía Magdalena

December 5, 2019

Greetings from Man of War Cove in Bahía Magdalena (“Mag Bay”). Peaceful, tiny village with a gorgeous beach in a bay. Apparently whales were behind us as we sailed in to the bay, but I was too busy dodging fishing buoys at the helm and looking ahead of us for whales to think to look behind us. (Jason was doing a boat project en route.) Good reminder to remember to look behind as we journey forward (literally and figuratively…. hmmm….).  Yesterday we dinghied to the beach, explored, then later dinghied to the tiny village for groceries and bought lobster tails from a fisherman.  Will post about our route here and interim stops at a later time.

Observing a huge falcon that sat on our mast for a while on Tuesday evening
Jumping off the side of the boat
Ryan learning to drive the dinghy. Admittedly he provide a bit more adept than I am. I need to practice more! (Somehow I got our boat in the background too. While taking this through my waterproof pouch. I couldn’t have imagined that if I tried.)
Walking on the beach
The market – inside
The market – from the outside
Fresh lobster tails from the grill, pasta with lemon-butter-Paremsan and tomato-cucumber salad. My cooking game is clearly improving, occasionally.
Sunrise this morning
Brief reunion with our buddy boat SV Pulsar before they left today for Cabo San Lucas. This is Pulsar yesterday morning at anchor.
Photo taken as we entered the bay on Tuesday

Bahía Asunción, Baja California Sur, Mexico

November 29, 2019

I knew we wouldn’t have internet/cell service for a few days but hadn’t realized it would be quite as long as it has been.  Will update our interim stops at next opportunity but in the meantime, we are enjoying lunch in a tiny town after a very windy night at anchor with high winds coming from an atypical direction, so had little protection in this small bay. Jason and I stayed up on anchor watch after taking turns on night watch on an overnight passage from Turtle Bay (Bahía Tortuga) the previous night to here: Bahía Ascension. Anchor watch involved periodic checks of nearby landmarks to ensure we hadn’t dragged anchor, and monitoring wind speed and direction, exacerbated by an alarm that sounds when winds exceed a certain speed – that beeping is still ringing in my ear. This was an exhausting few days (including decision-making about where/how to weather the weather – at anchor, on passage, and where to be when/if it hit) but oh so peaceful and gorgeous now, plus we already met several friendly people.

Guava juices on the table, boys playing by the ocean, Jason using binoculars to check on Flash on the boat (which is blocked in photo by the truck), and at least 2 dolphins in the water.
We are eating in the restaurant in the yellow building.

Ensenada to Bahía San Quintín

November 24, 2019

We left Ensenada on Friday morning to head south.  We used our time in Ensenada for boat projects (needed dinghy wheels for beach landings in remote anchorages) and provisioning (food shopping). Enjoyed sunsets, decent WiFi, the lead up to the Baja 1000 race, markets, local restaurants (including a ridiculously good queso fundido), a Spanish lesson for the boys, ice cream popsicles just like a shop at home (so we *had* to stop and sample), and a few too many churros…. all while waiting for the right weather window to head south. That happened on Friday so we left with our new buddy boat SV Pulsar.  We considered stopping at Puerto Santo Tomàs but decided not to stop due to heavy kelp and surgey waves, so continued on to Bahía San Quintín, around 24 hours total. (We slowed down a bit to sail in low winds and so we wouldn’t arrive in the anchorage area in the dark.) The boys helped keep us company during overnight watch and remarkably weren’t cranky during the day, though they were a bit ”overexcited.”

People say cruising has higher highs and lower lows.  We have experienced the lows  – anxieties and hard work around sailing and boat maintenance – regularly since buying the boat, and we also have experienced some of those higher highs of cruising.  Passage highlights: We saw whales!  We caught our first fish (large bonito)! We caught our second fish (another large bonito)! (No more sarcastic comments about fishing gear from me….). Later at anchor Owen caught several small fish!  Considered saving those to use as bait fish but we aren’t that organized yet. Also need to vastly improve our skills fileting and cooking fresh fish. Gorgeous sunrise and sunset!   (We also made water with the watermaker, which we do routinely.)  After we anchored, we cleaned up post passage, took care of other things on the boat and then took our dinghy to a beach to run and explore.  Flash ran free, the boys played hide and seek amongst the sand dunes with friends, Owen and I found some awesome shells, and we enjoyed an incredible sunset. THIS is what it’s all about. We plan to set off today for the next leg of the journey. 

Sunset at the marina in Ensenada
Familiar popsicles, similar to the Mexican ice cream shop at home
Enjoying local cuisine
My attempt at a self-timer family selfie, not realizing what was plotted behind me. Thanks guys!
First of two nights that we visited this churro stand.
C
Cleaning the boat
Overnight watch partner. The boys insisted on participating. This was O’s big effort for a small crew member.
FISH ON!
Reading to classify and identify the fish
My assistant at the helm while floating as Jason cleaned the fish.
Owen’s first solo catch on the boat, while we are at anchor!
Dinghy-ing to the beach
Running around
Exploring with friends
Jason’s panorama
Sunset back on the boat. Thank you Tracy Martin for the gorgeous lettering and design. (Look out for more photos in the future.)

The Journey Begins

Sunrise en route from San Diego, CA to Ensenada, Mexico

Our journey has begun and we are in Ensenada, Mexico!  On Wednesday we left San Diego to begin our journey south. In our time at Sun Harbor Marina in San Diego, we took a few extended sails (to the Channel Islands, to Avalon and Two Harbors, Catalina Island, and to Oxnard/LA to visit extended family), waited for hurricane season to pass, started acclimating to boat life (and WOW, what an adjustment it was moving across the country and on to a boat, plus boatschooling, not having “regular” routines, ….), sailed with dolphins, saw whales, met welcoming neighbors, visited museums, went rock climbing, surfed a fair amount (the boys), enjoyed visits from grandparents, went to Joshua Tree, made way too many trips to big box stores, learned about the boat, did regular maintenance and bigger projects (some but not all expected…), met new friends, and spent much time in the marine-related neighborhood around our marina. Amongst other things, I learned more about marine heads (toilets) than I ever wanted to know – including that there is a lot more to learn – yuck!  We confirmed that it is true that cruising means working on your boat in exotic locations, and San Diego felt exotic to us. Our time in San Diego also somehow was not enough time to exhaust the sightseeing or spend time with as many people as I had hoped. Sun Harbor Marina and San Diego was the perfect place from where to cast off, and we have now untied those dock lines. Grateful for the wonderful people who supported us in beginning this journey.

As for our journey to Ensenada: our overnight passage began with an electronic compass malfunction that showed our boat spinning on the chartplotter even though we weren’t spinning, so we hand steered using our regular compass for a few hours rather than use autopilot. We were basically going in small zig zags whenever it was my turn to hand steer, and the current pushing us off course wasn’t helping. We (ok, really Jason) tried several potential fixes for the electronic compass. We paused contemplating solutions so we could celebrate crossing the border (see photo) with the boys.  Next we essentially went in circles to raise sails, then again to lower them after we found hand steering with sails during an overnight passage to be too exhausting and an unnecessary added complication. THEN somehow the electronic compass started working! Our hypothesis is that all the turning in circles may have recalibrated the electronic compass, which we later realized might have been adversely affected by magnets in Wyze cameras that we just bought for the boat and were stored near the compass.  A story we couldn’t have made up. Autopilot back on, and overnight watch shifts began!

Upon arrival in Ensenada’s harbor, we spent time floating while we cleaned up and Jason recalibrated the compass again by doing figure 8s on the boat.  We raised our yellow Quarantine flag (shows we hadn’t checked in with the government yet), checked in at marina, went to government office to check in ourselves and the boat, enjoyed unique tostadas from a famous food stand, returned to boat, replaced Q flag with the Mexican flag and…. the journey has begun!  We expect to be in Ensenada until we have the right weather window to continue south – likely at least a few more days. #Everydayisagift #LiveEveryDay

Sun Harbor Marina, San Diego
Driving our dinghy in San Diego to visit our friends’ boat
Taking the dinghy from our anchored boat to Painted Cave, Santa Cruz Island, Channel Islands – one of the largest known sea caves – with Nana Judy and Pop-pop Jerry Shapiro
Spotting dolphins. Wh en Flash hears someone exclaim “Dolphins?” he runs to the front of the boat to find them.
The four boys watching dolphins swim under the boat’s trampoline. You can make one out in the background.
Learning to strip and crimp electrical wires repairing one control for the anchor windlass. Basic for those who know, but exciting and brand new for me. 🙂
Jason and Papa Jim Kronick in the generator hatch
Nana Patti Kronick on surfing watch
Rock climbing in Mission Trails in San Diego
Crossing the border into Mexico. Notice the electronic compass malfunctioning. We celebrated regardless!
The boys and Flash hanging out on the trampoline while we floated in Ensenada harbor prior to entering the marina.
Notice the yellow Q (quarantine) flag.

Cross Country Road Trip With Two Kids, a Dog and a U-Haul Trailer

Or, how to make living on a boat seem easy and the boat seem larger? Spend a week-plus in a car with 4 people and a dog.

(August 29, 2019 Facebook post)

NY- CT- MA-NH (pick up boys)-VT-NY-PA-OH-IN (Indiana Dunes National Park)-IL-WI-MN-SD (Badlands National Park)-WY (Yellowstone National Park, Grand Tetons National Park)-ID-UT (Moab National Park, Corona Arch Hike, Bryce Canyon National Park, Zion National Park)-NV (Fremont St late Sat night: Owen actually said “this gets old fast”)-CA. Arrived Sunday back in San Diego after Jason and I traveled 11 days through 17 states (14 days/18 states including travel time from CA to Newark) to get from home in NY to the boat in San Diego by way of NH where we picked up the boys. The boys were with us for 9 days and 15 states and we all visited 7 national parks en route.  I hate traveling too quickly and making a trip about the places “hit” rather than lingering for experiences.  This road trip highlighted that when you’re limited for any reason (time, money, attention span, etc.), you can still have incredible experiences: we needed to get back to the boat fairly quickly from NY with dog, kids and Uhaul trailer in tow.  Extending the miles and days (and hours/day) traveled for the opportunity to see so much beautiful land was the right choice for us even if we didn’t get to hike/bike/climb/fish/sit and gaze as much as we might have liked. New tip I learned that some of you may have known: seek out the national forests located right near parks. They seem to have significantly fewer people, are often (always?) more dog friendly, I think more accessible (the forests we visited were free) and almost just as beautiful.  We also learned a new dog travel tip: the louder the AC (often but not always signified by the cheaper the hotel or having a motel entry straight into the room) the better our dog sleeps!  We can generally sleep anywhere but evidently not always true for him. Here are just a few of the too many photos…

Ryan waterskiing in Wisconsin
Badlands
Hard to get a good picture when the bison gets this close and the dog is barking his head off.
Forest between Yellowstone and Grand Tetons
Corona Arch near Moab National Park
Corona Arch near Moab
Scrambling at Zion National Park